⭐️ How To Fix Image Stabilization Issues

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There are some common ways for you to fix Image Stabilization Issues. Make sure you use the proper ways in order to get the issues solved completely without taking much efforts. Below is one of the most popular ways that every user uses.

Before going to look deeply into how to fix image stabilization issues, we may need to know the definition of Image stabilization.

Image stabilization (IS) is a family of techniques used to reduce blurring associated with the motion of a camera during exposure. Specifically, it compensates for the panning and tilting (angular movement) of a camera or other imaging device when taking pictures or filming.

Most video cameras manufactured these days come with some IS features. However, you may notice even in some of the better small point and shoot cameras and compact handheld camcorders that some image blurring due to movement is still inevitable.

There are some ways to make these functions better as long as you know how to fix and improve them. Below is common guide that you can check yourself and apply for your own cameras.

Most stabilization issues with point and shoot cameras and small camcorders are a result of both the small weight of the camera, and tiny lens size. It’s rather difficult to keep a small camera still while panning or walking around filming a day in the life video.

Here are few tips you can do to fix the issues and make your cameras better:

Mount your camera on to something heavier. This can be as simple as mounting your video camera on a tripod when filming, or attaching some other type of heavy fixture or weight to the bottom of the camera where a tripod would normally be attached that would still allow you to hold the camera steady (one example is the X-GRIP Stabilizing Handle).

Steady your body by leaning against a wall or other stable structure while filming. Use the nearest bench, wall, table, tree or light post to steady yourself while capturing a video.

Brace your arms against the side of your body and hold your video camera with both hands.

When a standard tripod is cumbersome use a mini pod like the Gorillapod. One of the most important accessories you will come to own, the Gorillapod features flexible legs and multiple rubberized joints that can be bent around objects for a secure grip. Wherever you go there is almost always something you can attach it to. And measuring at less than 15-inches for the one of the smallest versions you can easily carry it around in a bag.

Shoot footage with the lens of your camera at the widest angle setting that’s practical for your situation. Wide angle settings and wide angle lenses (in the case of DSLR’s) minimize the effects of camera shake.

Finally, some of the most interesting advice I’ve been given is pretend your camera is a very full cup of very hot coffee that you must carry without spilling a single drop. It’s amazing how well that can really work.

7 common photo problems … and how to solve them!

The reasons which push us to practice photography are various . We may want to keep memories, share moments of life, capture emotions or even express our artistic sensitivity. Beyond our personal motivations, I think we all take photos because we enjoy it !

However, it is not uncommon for this pleasure to be marred by small technical problems . These are not always insurmountable problems, but if they come back regularly, it can become frustrating .

In this article I have made a selection of 7 common photo problems and I give you tips to solve them .

1. Photos that are too yellow or too blue

Have you ever experienced yellow photo syndrome when taking photographs? You know these photos which take on a yellow tint when the light seemed “normal”. You may have had the opposite effect with images that have a cool shade that turns blue.

The explanation is very simple: unlike our eyes, our camera does not always manage to adapt to ambient light . Whether the light is natural or artificial, it sometimes restores colors that do not correspond to what we have seen. When the camera is mistaken, it means that it has set the white balance incorrectly .

Let’s take an example with the photo below. You can see that the photo has a warm dominant which tends towards yellow. The colors are clearly not true to what I could observe at the time of the shooting.

To avoid this kind of problem, you can adjust the white balance using the presets available on your camera. Each preset is adapted to a type of lighting : daylight, cloudy, shade, incandescent, tungsten, etc.

You can also (it’s even simpler!) Photograph in RAW and adjust the white balance in post-processing without any degradation on the image quality.

This is exactly what I did for my photo. I changed the white balance setting in the Lightroom software to find colors more in line with what I had seen in the field.

2. The leaning horizon

When we look at a landscape photo, we expect to find a perfectly straight horizon . This element of the image is so important that we immediately consider a tilted horizon as a clumsiness of the photographer.

As soon as the picture is taken, some precautions are necessary. First of all, and these are two tips that I often give, do not rush and be rigorous ! With a minimum of care given to framing, your horizon will be straight in 99% of cases. If you are on a boat in the middle of a storm, things will be different, but admit that these are not the usual shooting conditions!

To help you frame, be aware that most cameras can display a grid in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen. With this tool, getting a straight horizon becomes child’s play. If the photo is already taken, it is possible to straighten the horizon in almost all image software, from the most basic to the most complex.


3. Camera shake

Camera shake is an involuntary movement of the photographer at the time of shooting. The blurring is more or less pronounced but it affects the entire image .

The blur appears photographing freehand , when the shutter speed is too slow . Indeed, with a slow speed, the sensor records the slightest movement of the photographer, as imperceptible as it is.

For example, the photo below was taken at the end of the day when the light was starting to run out . So I couldn’t benefit from a very fast speed. And to make matters worse, the photo was taken on a moving boat . The risk of getting a camera shake was therefore quite high!

One solution is to increase the shutter speed. A rule of thumb is to use a speed at least as fast as 1 / focal length when shooting freehand. With a 50mm lens, you should theoretically use a speed at least as fast as 1/50 s.

Some lenses and cameras also have stabilization systems to use an even slower speed. Finally, the royal solution is to use a tripod to stabilize the camera or more simply to place it on a stable support when possible.

4. Photos that are too light or too dark

Even though cameras have made huge strides in determining true exposure , occasionally they get it wrong … So in some situations, the sensor receives too much , not enough, light . The image is then too light or too dark.

It is possible to take control of the camera settings thanks to the exposure compensation . As the name suggests, this setting corrects the exposure. You can lighten an underexposed image or darken an overexposed image. Exposure compensation is generally available with Program ( P ), aperture priority ( A or Av ) and speed priority ( S or Tv ) exposure modes .

5. Focusing in the wrong place

Sometimes the camera does not focus where we would like it to focus. The result is often cruel: it is not the subject that is sharp but what is next. And in this situation, there is not much to do, the photo is good to throw !

For example, look at the photo below. Instead of focusing on the bird , the camera focused on the grass in the background .

So that you no longer have to face this problem, it is therefore important to choose the focus area for the autofocus yourself . For this, you must therefore manually select the collimator which will be used to focus . Small precision: I do not speak here to make a manual focusing, just to choose which zone the autofocus should use.

Focusing can sometimes be tricky with very bright lenses, opening for example at f / 1.8 or f / 2.8. With this type of aperture, the depth of field is very short and it boils down to a few millimeters if you are close to the subject. It is therefore necessary to be extra vigilant with very large openings and if necessary close the diaphragm slightly or adjust the point with the focusing ring.

6. Digital noise

In low light conditions, the lack of light is a real obstacle to properly expose our photos. To get more light to the sensor, we can play with the aperture of the diaphragm or the shutter speed .

But in practice, we cannot open our lens larger than its maximum aperture and sometimes we need a fast speed to avoid blurring of freehand.

One way around this problem is to increase the sensitivity of the sensor to light. This setting is called ISO sensitivity . Unfortunately, things are not as simple as there is a counterpart … With a high sensitivity , the image tends to present an unattractive granulation : digital noise .

The first thing to do is to deactivate the automatic ISO mode to regain control of the sensitivity setting. On entry and mid-range boxes, noise begins to become quite present from ISO 1600. So only exceed this value if you really need it.

If you still want to stay in automatic ISO mode, note that some devices allow you to set a maximum ISO value that the device will not exceed. If you’ve never heard of it, now’s the time to do it!

Noise can be effectively reduced in post-processing . However, you should be aware that a sharp correction is made to the detriment of the sharpness because the reduction of the noise tends to smooth the details of the image.

7. The vignetting

The vignetting is an optical defect which is manifested by a darkening of the corners of the image. It is more or less marked depending on the objectives and the aperture of the diaphragm used. If you don’t pay attention, you don’t always notice it. But once you realize it, you only see that!

For example, in the photo below, you can notice that the 4 corners of the image are darker . We realize this at sky level because it is a uniform area.

Vignetting can easily be eliminated in most post-processing software . You just have to move a cursor to make it disappear. This is what I did for my image and it literally took me 3 seconds!

Finally, note that vignetting is not only perceived as a defect . Some photographers voluntarily add more to attract the viewer’s attention. Not everyone is a fan, even if it’s a good way to direct your gaze to the important elements of the image.


We come to the end of this article where I presented 7 common photo problems . Whether you are new to photography or more experienced, you have most likely already faced some of these situations. I hope the article helped you and that you learned some useful things 

Feel free to share your experience or ask questions . What obstacles are preventing you from moving forward? What problems do you often encounter in photos and want to solve? The comments are there for that!